I HAD READ AN ARTICLE IN A "VALIANT" SITE MONTHS AGO WHEN I WAS LOOKING FOR SOMETHING ELSE FOR SOMEBODY ON HERE. I WAS GONNA THROW "THIS" ON YOU IN THE NEXT RESPONSE IN THE BEGINNING, I ASKED YOU IF YOU HAD ELECTRONIC IGNITION The big one goes to the positive terminal on the battery, so it should have constant power, right? The green spade connection goes to the regulator and shouldn't be grounded or powered, right? Finally the third red wire splices to about 8 other red wires further down the wire bundle, should this wire be grounded? I attached a picture so you can see the connections. One other question, the alternator has three connections. I also went through my wiring and as far as I can tell all the wires are good, all the fusible links are good, and my fuses are good as well. I'm not sure if that makes a difference or not. My old alternator had to spade connections of the back, and the one I got from Oreilly's has one spade connector and one bolt and nut connector for an eyelet. I also found this video,, and it says that Chrysler used different types of alternators in the late 60's and 70's. The part number is Ultima 01-0657, on Oreilly's website its says its for a 69 W100. Thanks for the help, I did some research and I think the alternator Oreilly's sold me is the wrong alternator. IF NOT, KEEP ASKING ME STUFF, I'LL THEN PICK UP ON MY WIRE DIAGRAM SEARCH QUEST THAT I PUT ON HOLD! I'LL WAIT FOR YOUR REPLY, HOPEFULLY GOOD NEWS! MAKE SURE YOU DID NOT ELIMINATE A FUSIBLE LINK! IT APPEARS THAT THESE 2 WIRES CONNECT AT THE CIRCLE W/ TRIANGLE INSIDE, ACTUALLY, THE CIRCLE THINGEE IS 2 STAKE-ON RINGS STACKED TOGETHER.ĬHECK YOUR FUSES BEFORE YOU GO THRU ALL OF THE CRAP I JUST THREW AT YOU! WHAT'S IMPORTANT IS THE BATTERY CABLE STACKED BESIDE THE "FEED WIRES" ON THE SAME BIG TERMINAL, AND THE STARTER CABLE ALL BY ITSELF ON THE OTHER BIG TERMINALĢnd DIAGRAM SHOWS THE FUSIBLE LINK "VALUES/ GAUGE" THEY SPLICE ONTO THE REGULAR WIRES AT "SPLICE G" AND "SPLICE K" I SORTA ZEROED IN ON THE SOLENOID (MY OTHER PIC HAS MY WIRES REVERSED FROM THE WAY THE DIAGRAM SHOWS) MY SECOND PIC IS A LITTLE CHUNK OF A 1979 JEEP CJ DIAGRAM. I'M SPEAKING OF YOUR BURNT WIRE (WAS IT WIRE? OR FUSIBLE LINK?) CAN YOU DETERMINE THIS? YOU REALLY NEED A FUSIBLE LINK, TO REPLACE A BAD ONE! *********LET'S INSURE YOU DID NOT PUT A REGULAR WIRE IN PLACE OF A FUSIBLE LINK!********* LOOK FOR BUBBLED INSULATION/ BURNED IN HALF WIRE/ OR JUST GIVE THE BEGINNING OF THE WIRE A FIRM PULL, IF THE WIRE IS GONE INSIDE, THE INSULATION MIGHT STRETCH OUT LIKE A RUBBER BAND YOU CAN TEST WITH A 12 VOLT TEST LIGHT FROM STARTING AT "GOOD 12V" THEN STABBED INTO THE WIRE AND GET NO VOLTAGE (OR VOLTAGE) WHEN A FUSIBLE LINK "GOES", THE WIRE USUALLY DISINTEGRATES IN THE PIC, IT ALMOST APPEARS THAT 3 AND 4 ARE THE SAME WIRE IN A LOOP, THEY ARE NOT! THEY ARE AT THE BEGINNING OF THE WIRE TO BE PROTECTED, AND COULD BE IN OTHER LOCATIONS. THE 1st FEW INCHES OF BOTH OF THESE WIRES ARE FUSIBLE LINKS (THEY ARE RATED IN "GAUGE" SIZE) BASICALLY THEY ARE SACRIFICIAL WIRES, LIKE FUSES. "4" RUNS TO THE FUSE BOX (NO MARKING AT ALL) "3" RUNS TO THE ALTERNATOR (HAS A TAG ON IT) IN MY PIC (OF MY '46 WILLYS, WHICH I COMPLETELY WIRED TO CLOSELY MATCH A 1979) ON THE JEEP IT'S AT THE SOLENOID, WHERE THE POSITIVE BATTERY CABLE IS STACKED TOGETHER WITH A WIRE TO THE ALTERNATOR AND THE OTHER TO THE FUSE BOX YOU ARE GONNA HAVE TO FIND WHERE YOUR WIRING DRAWS IT'S POWER FROM THE BATTERY YOU SHOULD BE ABLE TO "TRANSLATE" JEEP TO DODGE MORE THAN LIKELY, YOUR RIG USES FUSIBLE LINKS AS A LAST LINE OF DEFENSE TO PREVENT YOUR WIRING (AND RIG) FROM CATCHING ON FIRE I'VE MADE BUNCHES OF PICS TO AID IN ANSWER JEEP QUESTIONS. MY PRIMARY JEEP IS A '77 CJ-5, MY OTHER IS A '46 WILLYS THAT I BASICALLY REBUILT FROM ALMOST NOTHING. I MOSTLY DEAL WITH JEEP CJs, OTHER CARBURETED STUFF SOMETIMES NO LUCK YET (I ALSO HAD TO DO SOME HONEY DOs!) I'VE BEEN LOOKING FOR A WIRING DIAGRAM FOR YOUR RIG
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